Handloom weaving is one of the largest traditional handicraft sectors in Africa. Mostly informally organised, rudimentary working conditions, low wages and an outdated reputation are the usual attributes of hand weaving.
But African design is experiencing a renaissance. The global interest in traditional patterns, cultural value and sustainable production is developing a transcultural design in the fabric and fashion sector.
This is the background to the INNO-TISS project. The programme is being implemented jointly with BIWE and GIZ at locations in Ethiopia, Ghana and Senegal. The programme is financed by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) and implemented by BIWE International. The aim is to fundamentally professionalise the sector and strengthen sustainable value chains and open pathways to decent employment especially for young people and women.
The INNO-TISS project has three pillars
New weaving technology
The technology of the “Flying8” loom developed by Weberei Hamburg offers the weavers great advantages on a working area of 3 square metres per person. The eight-foot pedals give the weavers a completely new spectrum for their fabric structure. In addition, weaving is no longer done in narrow strips. “Flying8” allows a fabric width of 140 cm. This accommodates the transcultural design and not only has a visual but also a tactile effect.
Based on a uniform yarns supply, the weavers produce contemporary textiles that meet international standards.
Long-term training
In a specially designed training programme, the pre-qualified weavers in the three countries are taught the innovative art of weaving by Weberei Hamburg. Starting with the construction of the looms on site, the complex set-up of the thread mesh on the weaving frame and the introduction of the weaving technique, the modern weaver goes through various phases of further training. Through that training approach better warping, weft winding, and weaving techniques to increase efficiency and consistency.
Marketing
By creating stronger commercial networks, INNO-TISS aims to position African handwoven textiles as competitive, high-value products on the global market.